To TerryPfeff's Training Tips Page!

Loving Shepherd

"Jesus Shepherd of my life
Who gently leads the way
Please preserve and shield me
So I won't stray away.

Your presence guards and guides me
Your voice calms all my fear
You pick me up in tenderness
And hold me safely near.

Keep me by Your side dear Lord
Carry me near Your heart
Then I'll know the joy and peace
Your precious love imparts.

"Jesus The Lamb" by "Katherine Brown" provided courtesy of "Christ-Centered Art".

TerryPfeff's Potty Training Tips!


I get emails from people everyday asking me how to potty train a puppy or older dog. Most of the pups/dogs that I work with need some form of housebreaking done. I can't understand how someone can allow their pup/dog to use the bathroom in their house. I have worked with dogs as old as 3 or 4 years of age that are not housebroken. If your dog is that old and not housebroken it is most likely your fault. This is one of the most common problems that pup/dog owners have. Yet it is one of the most easily taught when the dog is just a few weeks old. At 8 weeks of age you should begin taking the pup outside. Below are my tips on how to housebreak a pup/dog. If you follow the tips and be consistent with it, you will have a potty-trained pup/dog in no time at all. If you need more help with this problem just email me and I will be glad to help you.
Thanks and good luck with your potty training!

1. Buy a crate that is 1 1/2 times bigger than the pup and put it into it when you leave the house, go to bed or are too busy to watch the pup!

2. Do not let the pup out of the crate when it cries! If it is let out when it cries, the pup is the boss and will cry worse when you put it into the crate the next time.

3. Do not let the pup have free run of your house. Keep it with you at all times!

4. Attach a leash to your waist to keep the pup with you at all times.

5. DO NOT USE NEWSPAPER OR PUPPY PADS! This teaches a pup to go in the house and actually makes housebreaking harder.

6. Do not feed or water the pup free choice. If you don't see it go in. How can you predict when it will come back out?

7. Feed the pup at the same time everyday. Keep it on a schedule and you will know when it has to go to the bathroom.

8. Give the pup water once every hour and let it drink its fill.

9. Take the pup outside approxiamatly 15 minutes after it eats or drinks. This will vary with the size and breed of the pup (I.E. toy breeds--10 minutes, large breeds--15 minutes). You will learn how often after 2 or 3 days.




13. Don't expect children under the age of 18 to take the pup outside when needed. Adults should be the ones to housebreak a puppy! By the time children get done arguing about who will take the pup outside, it is too late. You can't scold the pup for that accident because it is your fault.

14. Take the pup outside on a leash and praise it when it goes.


16. Take the pup outside no matter what the weather is. After all you nor your pup is sugar and won't melt!


18. If the pup has an accident and you did not catch the pup doing it, DON'T SCOLD THE PUP.

19. NEVER CALL YOUR PUP TO YOU AND SCOLD IT FOR ANY REASON WHEN IT COMES TO YOU! After all it did as it was told. It came when called!

20. If you catch the pup in the act of using the bathroom where it should not say "NO" in firm, not loud, voice and make a loud noise to startle the pup into stopping.

21. Immediately take the pup outside and praise it when it finishes relieving itself outside.

22. Stay outside with the pup for at least 15 minutes and encourage it to go to the bathroom.

23. If it does not go to the bathroom in 15 minutes, bring it inside and put it into its crate for 5 minutes. Take the pup outside immediately after the 5 minutes are up.

24. Repeat step 23 as often as necessary until the pup goes to the bathroom.


26. Pick up all the food and water after 6 pm.

27. Take the pup outside 7 or 8 times before you go to bed.

28. If the pup cries in the crate, put the crate in your bedroom, beside the bed. When the pup cries, tap the top and say in a firm voice,say "NO", Be Quiet!

29. Praise the pup when it is quiet.

Last but not least!


Having a schedule can help greatly when trying to housebreak a new puppy. Once you establish a daily routine you will notice that the pup has more confidence and is easier to care for. You can copy the list below and list the times set aside for feeding, play, socializing, grooming, exercising, and training, as well as the family member whose responsibility it is for that day and time. If you don't know what you want your pup/dog to do, you pup/dog can't figure it out either! It is best to formulate your specific behavioral goals and create an environment and schedule where your pup/dog can build on success rather than having to correct your pup/dog.

7A.M - 9A.M Take the pup outside to eliminate and then feed and water him/her. The first thing you want to do in the morning is take the pup outside to eliminate. Never let the pup just run out of the crate! Make the pup be quiet before you let it out of the crate. When the pup emerges from the crate make him Sit and snap the leash onto his/her collar. Use the phrase "Do you have to go OUTSIDE?". Stress the word "outside". Do not let the pup drag you down the hallway to the door. Praise the pup when it does as you want. When you get the pup outside take it to where you want it to eliminate. Take it to the same spot every time and it will learn to eliminate there. To encourage the pup to eliminate quickly and in the same place every time you can give it a special treat when it goes. Say to the pup/dog "go potty" or "go poo-poo" in baby talk. They love that type of voice. Praise the pup enthusiastically while it is relieving itself. Bring it inside and keep a close watch on it while it greets other family members. Do not let the pup jump on people, no matter what they say! Make sure that everyone makes him/her Sit before petting him/her. Take the pup outside once more before you put it into it's crate before leaving for work. Use the phrase "Kennel", "Kennel up" or "bedtime" when you put it into it's crate. Praise when the pup goes into the crate. Do not put any food or water into the crate. Do not put any towels, rugs, beds into the crate as they will absorb urine and encourage the pup to have accidents in the crate. Once a pup is taught to eliminate in it's crate, it is almost impossible to stop. Do put a safe chew toy of some kind into the crate.

9A.M. - NOON Allow the pup to rest.

NOON - 1P.M. Take the pup outside again to eliminate. Feed and water the pup when it comes back inside. Repeat the same methods as in the morning. Praise the pup when it eliminates! Make it fun! If you work and can't be home in the middle of the day to let the pup outside ask someone you trust to take the pup outside for you. Work with this person and show him/her exactly how you do it and explain to the person why he/she must do it the same way. Bring the pup inside and play with it for a few minutes. Throw a toy or play hide and seek. Above all make it FUN! Do not chase the pup; have it chase you! Take the pup outside after 20 to 30 minutes after coming back inside. Praise the good and ignore the bad unless it is harmful to the pup, the environment or other people or dogs. Take the pup outside once more before putting it back into it's crate.

1P.M. - 5P.M. Let the pup rest in it's crate.

5P.M. - 10P.M. Take the pup outside when you let it out of the crate. Repeat the same methods you used in the morning and afternoon. Praise the pup when it eliminates outside. Take a short walk with the pup and slowly introduce it to the friendly dogs and cats in the neighborhood. Introduce it to your neighbors and other children you meet along the way. Use a four or six foot nylon or leather leash and a good buckle collar. Do not use a retractable leash(they encourage the pup to pull you)or a collar with the plastic snap(they stretch and/or break open). Praise the pup for walking beside you quietly. Walk like the pup is not there in a very relaxed manner. When you return home feed the pup and take it outside after 20 to 30 minutes. Bring the pup inside and give it supervised play time with the family. If you can't watch the pup while it is playing, put it into it's crate for a short period. The pup should be in it's crate while you are eating. This will keep the pup from learning to beg at the table. Alternate playing with the pup and taking it outside. Do not give the pup access to rooms where the adults are not at. Children will not watch the pup closely enough! They also will not take the pup outside correctly, I.E. they will not wait nor encourage the pup to eliminate. This is a job for the adults or teenagers that have shown they can be patient and responsible.

Do not give the pup water after 7 P.M. and make sure you have picked up the food after 15 minutes when you fed the pup. Take the pup outside one last time before putting it into the crate for the night.

AFTER 10P.M./ALL NIGHT If the pup cries in the middle of the night get up and take it outside. Make sure you use the same methods that you used during the day. Bring the pup inside and put it back into it's crate. Praise the pup and go back to bed.

The most important thing is being consistent when taking the pup/dog outside. You must take the pup/dog outside even in the middle of the night!!!! You can always go back to bed with the knowledge that you won't have a mess to clean up in the morning.

Remember the key to all training is this; PRAISE, PRAISE, PRAISE AND MORE PRAISE for all appropriate behavior. Ignore your pup/dog's inappropriate behavior unless it is harmful to the pet, you, or the environment. Do not correct a pup/dog unless you can follow through with the praise. A pup that can run away from you has not been corrected but taught that it can simply run away from the "barking" dog in its pack that is trying to correct it.

The English bulldog I trained during August of 2009. She is shown with her owner, Roxann Soliz.
Here she is with her "Daddy".

This is Agnes(Aggy). She is a black and white Jack Russell mix. I found her one day in July of 2007, just sitting on the side of the dirt road, like she was waiting for me to find her. I picked her up because she was so small and I was afraid she would get run over. She was about 3 months old. No-one has ever claimed her, so I guess she is mine.

D---Decide you need a Savior!
For all have sinned and come short of God.
Romans 3:23

O---Open your heart to what God has done for you!
For God so loved the world that He gave his one and only son,that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have eternal life.
John 3:16

G---Give your heart to Jesus!
For it is with your heart that you believe and are justified, and it is with your mouth that you confess and are saved. Everyone who trusts in Him will never be put to shame.
Romans 10:10-11

The "Come" command is the second most ask about. I get emails and phone calls all the time from people who tell me that their dog won't come to them. The first thing I ask them is, What do you do when it gets out of the house and you can't catch it? They always say that they chase the dog. There is a commercial on TV that shows a dog running away. The owner is doing all the wrong things to try and catch the dog. My next question is, Do you scold the dog when you finally do catch it? The answer is ALWAYS Yes,I do. That is your first mistake. The article below will help teach you what to do when your dog will not come to you when called. Follow these directions and in no time at all, you will have a dog that will want to come to you.

My Dog Won't Come When Called
The Come command is one of the most important commands to teach a dog. It can save the dog's life and make your life more enjoyable because your dog will come to you when you call.

The first step to teaching a good solid Come is learning NEVER to call your dog to you and then scolding the dog when it does as it is told. You MUST learn to think like your dog. The dog lives in the here and now. It is not thinking about what it did ten minutes ago. Nor is it thinking that it is getting even with you by not coming when called. It will learn to understand that when you call him/her to you and it comes to you, it will be rewarded. If it comes to you and gets into trouble or gets a spanking, You have just taught your dog that it is not fun to come to you. Would you come to someone who was going to scold you when you got to the person? I think not! You would run in the other direction to avoid the trouble. Why should your dog be any different!

Unfortunately, very few dogs respond reliably to this command in the presence of distractions. Several factors will influence the reliability of a dog's response to the Come command.
One such factor is the degree to which they are socially versus environmentally focused. Dogs that are more socially focused typically tend to check in with their owners frequently and are less distracted by their environment. Those dogs will usually have more reliable recalls than will dogs that are more environmentally focused. Environmentally focused dogs are more attuned to their surroundings and what is going on around them. In distracting environments, these dogs will typically tune-out their owners and, as such, will rarely have extremely reliable recalls. Breed, personality, and the particular environment or people involved all contribute to the degree to which a dog will be more socially or environmentally focused. Nevertheless, all dogs can and should learn the best recall they are able to offer.
Unfortunately, people often neglect the most important step in teaching a Come command creating for the dog a strong, positive emotional bond with the command. This step will provide a strong foundation for recall. Consider, for example, your emotional response to the word vomit. If you are like most people, you probably felt a nearly immediate disgust reaction. Now, consider your emotional response to the word flower. Dogs like people, form emotional reactions to words or phrases. How does your dog respond when you ask, "Do you want to go for walk", or "a ride in the car", or "Do you want a treat"? What about No! Bad dog!? Which of these statements do you think would be more likely to make your dog happy and excited? The Come command needs to elicit the same emotion for your dog as "Do you want a treat"?
For most dogs, the word Come is likely to elicit a negative emotional reaction. To a dog, Come usually means stop whatever you're doing (sleeping, sniffing, getting into the garbage, exploring, etc.) and return to your handler (which often is not nearly as exciting as whatever it was you were just doing) and get a scolding.
Before you even attempt to ask your dog to comply with the Come command, you must help the dog acquire a positive feeling about the command. The most effective way to do this is to repeatedly pair the command with whatever your dog likes. For example, immediately before your dog receives something good (dinner, treats, toys, going for a walk or ride, etc.) he should hear the word Come. During this time, it is also important to not ever use the word without pairing it with something good. For this reason, many people will begin training a recall command with a word the dog has not already formed an association with and is not likely to hear at any other times (Front, Mind, or Here). Although owners and handlers must understand that not all dogs will be able to respond perfectly to a recall command, the foundation for the best possible recall lies in removing any negative feelings a dog has formed for the command and building the strongest possible feelings.

The first step to teaching a Come.

A dog must first learn to come to you on a leash. Without the leash you have no control. You tell the dog to Come and it runs in the other direction. Without a leash, you would have taught the dog that Come means to run in the other direction. The leash teaches the dog to come to you, no matter what is going on around it. Never expect a dog to know how to do a command until you teach the dog what the word means. The leash will help you do this.
When you say Come use a happy tone of voice. Clap your hands or blow a whistle to get the dog's attention. Say the dog's name, blow the whistle or clap your hands. Gently but firmly pull on the dog's leash, taking up the slack as the dog comes to you. When the dog turns to face you, praise the dog. Get excited and make the dog want to see why you are so excited. Continue to praise the dog as it comes to you. Give the dog a treat or scratch it on its favorite spot when it reaches you. This is your dog's payment for listening and responding to your command. Start from a short distance away from you, two foot away, and gradually add a foot each day. Remember to praise the dog each and every time it comes to you. Do not progress any faster than the dog is able to learn or you are able to handle at one time. Keep the lesson short and simple. Practice calling the dog while it is in the house. Call the dog to you when you are watching television or sitting on the couch. Incorporate the command into the dog's everyday life. You will see more progress by doing this.

How to keep the dog Coming to you.

NEVER, under any circumstances chase your dog when it does not respond to your command. If you chase the dog when it does not come, it is rewarded by you playing a game of chase with it. You chase the dog and it runs away. It stops to look back at you to make sure you are still playing with it. When you get to the point where you can almost touch your dog, it runs away again. You are frustrated that you can't catch your dog and the dog is having a great time playing DUMB HUMAN CHASE with you. When you finally do catch your dog, you scold it. NEVER SCOLD YOUR DOG WHEN YOU CATCH IT! Your dog will be thinking that it had a great time playing chase with you, but the end of the game is no fun, because the dog got into trouble BY GETTING CAUGHT. Remember to think like your dog, not like a human. Make Coming to you a game and your dog will want to play with you everyday. By rewarding the dog EVERY TIME it is near you, the dog will soon learn that it is more fun to be with you than anywhere else.

TerryPfeff Dog Obedience

Understanding Aggressive Behavior In Dogs

Dog aggression is any behavior meant to intimidate or harm a person or another animal. Growling, baring teeth, snarling, snapping and biting are all aggressive behaviors. Although aggressive behaviors are normal for dogs, they are generally unacceptable to humans. From a dog's perspective, there's always a reason for aggressive behavior. Because humans and dogs have different communication systems, misunderstandings can occur between the two species. A person may intend to be friendly, but a dog may perceive that person's behavior as threatening or intimidating. Dogs aren't schizophrenic, psychotic, crazy, or necessarily "vicious," when displaying aggressive behavior. Any dog who is not trained, that is, does not understand his subordinate position to you, will try to become "top dog". One example of this is when a dog repeatedly jumps up on you. An out of control dog is like a belligerent teenager, always pushing to test the boundaries. This behavior can be a prelude to aggressive behavior.

Because aggression is so complex, and because the potential consequences are so serious, we recommend that you get professional help from an animal behavior specialist if your dog is displaying aggressive behavior.

The body language or signs of defensive aggression displayed by a puppy are: a prolonged direct stare, raised hackles, growling, showing his teeth, arching his body, and curling his tail between his legs.

If any of these signs are present during the following circumstances, you should be concerned and need to get professional help:

  • eating
  • sleeping and suddenly disturbed
  • being petted, especially when your hand is drawn over the top of his head
  • approached by strangers
  • approached by other dogs
  • protecting toys
  • protecting the house or yard
  • being groomed or examined
  • being around children

If your puppy or dog shows signs of aggression when people try to enter or leave your house or yard, you should be concerned and seek the help of professional behaviorist or a dog trainer with experience in dealing with aggressive behavior.


Young puppies up to the age of six months will sometimes act aggressively and even snap at or bite someone. These beginning signs of aggression are usually easy to correct because of the pup's age, size, and lack of maturity.

Young dogs, six to ten months old, represent a different quality and degree of aggression but are still considered manageable and, through reconditioning, can be corrected.

A dog older than eighteen months, who is acting aggressively and has bitten someone, is much more difficult to recondition, and the aggressive behavior can sometimes not be changed.

No matter what solution one tries, there is no guarantee that a mature dog that has already bitten someone will never bite again. You have a potentially very dangerous situation on your hands!

Types Of Aggression

Dominance Aggression:

Dominance aggression is motivated by a challenge to a dog's social status or to his control of a social interaction. Dogs are social animals and view their human families as their social group or "pack". Based on the outcomes of social challenges among group members, a dominance hierarchy or "pecking order" is established.

If your dog perceives his own ranking in the hierarchy to be higher than your rank, it is likely that he'll challenge you in certain situations. Because people don't always understand canine communication, you may inadvertently challenge your dog's social position. A dominantly aggressive dog may growl if he is disturbed when resting or sleeping, or if he is asked to give up a favorite spot, such as the couch or the bed. Physical restraint, even when done in a friendly manner, like hugging, may also cause your dog to respond aggressively. He could, also interpret reaching for your dog's collar, or reaching out over his head to pet him, as a challenge for dominance. Dominantly aggressive dogs are often described as "Jekyll and Hyde" because they can be very friendly when not challenged. Dominance aggression may be directed at people or at other animals. The most common reason for dogs in the same family to fight with each other is instability in the dominance hierarchy.

Fear-Motivated Aggression: Fear-motivated aggression is a defensive reaction and occurs when a dog believes he is in danger of being harmed. Remember that it's your dog's perception of the situation, not your actual intent, which determines your dog's response. For example, you may raise your arm to throw a ball, but your dog, perceiving this to be a threat, may bite you because he believes he is protecting himself from being hit. A dog may also be fearfully aggressive when approached by other dogs.

Protective, Territorial And Possessive Aggression: Protective, territorial and possessive aggression are all very similar, and involve the defense of valuable resources. Territorial aggression is usually associated with defense of property. However, your dog's sense of territory may extend well past the boundaries of "his" yard. For example, if you walk your dog regularly around the neighborhood and allow him to urine-mark, to him, his territory may be the entire block!

Protective Aggression: usually refers to aggression directed toward people or animals that a dog perceives as threats to his family, or pack. Dogs become possessively aggressive when defending their food, toys or other valued objects, such as Kleenex stolen from the trash!

Redirected Aggression: This type of aggression is relatively common, but is a behavior that pet owners may not always understand. If a dog is aroused into an aggressive response by a person or animal that he is prevented from attacking, he may redirect this aggression onto someone else. A common example occurs when two family dogs become excited, bark and growl in response to another dog passing through the front yard. The two dogs, confined behind a fence, may turn and attack each other because they can't attack the intruder.

Predation is usually considered to be a unique kind of aggressive behavior, because it's motivated by the intent to obtain food, and not primarily by the intent to harm or intimidate.

Individual Variation Dogs differ in their likelihood to show aggressive behavior in any particular situation. Some dogs tend to respond aggressively with very little stimulation. Others may be subjected to all kinds of threatening stimuli and events, and never attempt to bite. The difference in this threshold at which a dog displays aggressive behavior is influenced by both environmental and genetic factors. If this threshold is low, a dog will be more likely to bite. Raising the threshold makes a dog less likely to respond aggressively. This threshold can be raised using behavior modification techniques. How easily the threshold can be changed is influenced by the dog's gender, age, breed, general temperament, and by whether the appropriate behavior modification techniques are chosen and correctly implemented. Working with aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous, and should be done only by, or under the guidance of, an experienced animal behavior professional that understands animal learning theory and behavior.

What You Can Do

  • First check with your veterinarian to rule out medical causes for the aggressive behavior.

  • Seek professional help. An aggression problem will not go away by itself. Working with aggression problems requires help from an animal behavior specialist.

  • Take precautions. Your first priority is to keep everyone safe. Supervise, confine and/or restrict your dog's activities until you can obtain professional help. You're liable for your dog's behavior. If you must take your dog out in public, consider a cage-type muzzle as a temporary precaution, and keep in mind that some dogs can get a muzzle off.

  • Avoid exposing your dog to situations where he is more likely to show aggression. You may need to keep him confined to a safe room and limit his people-contact.

  • If your dog is possessive of food, treats or a certain place, don't allow him access to those items. In an emergency, bribe him with something better than what he has. For example, if he steals your shoe, trade him the shoe for a piece of chicken.

  • Spay or neuter your dog. Intact dogs are more likely to display dominance, territorial and protective aggressive behavior.

    What Not To Do

  • Punishment won't help and,in fact, will make the problem worse. If the aggression is motivated by fear, punishment will make your dog more fearful,and therefore more aggressive. Attempting to punish or dominate a dominantly aggressive dog is likely to cause him to escalate his behavior in order to retain his dominant position. This is likely to result in a bite or a severe attack. Punishing territorial, possessive or protective aggression is likely to elicit additional defensive aggression.

  • Don't encourage aggressive behavior. Playing tug-of-war or wrestling games encourages your dog to attempt to "best" you or "win" over you, which can result in the beginning of a dominance aggression problem. When dogs are encouraged to "go get'em" or to bark and dash about in response to outside noises or at the approach of a person, territorial and protective aggressive behavior may be the result.

  • Never try to solve an aggression problem yourself. You will need to hire an experienced behaviorist to help teach you and your dog how to change the unwanted behavior.

  • Never try to hold or pin down a dog that has shown any aggressive behavior. You will get bitten.

    Not all aggression problems can be solved! Sometimes the kindest thing to do is have the dog euthanised to protect yourself, your family and the general public. The older the dog is before the aggression problems are addressed,the less chance you have of ever changing the behavior. If a dog older than 18 months has bitten someone once, the chances are 50% higher EACH TIME that the dog will bite again.

    Assert your dominance! Get your dog trained! Teach him to respect you and others near and dear to you. If you are concerned about your dog's aggressiveness, seek the guidance of a professional dog trainer. In the meantime, confine or muzzle your dog whenever people are present.

    TerryPfeff Dog Training

Terrypfeff Dog Training My homepage!

Terrypfeff poems & Jokes My poems and stories page!

Terrypfeff Training Tips 2 My Training Tips 2 page!

Sign Friendbook View Friendbook


Search Engine Marketing and SEO Tools
Dog Food Products
NutroScience Diet